Let’s Talk About The Indian Homegrown Fashion Movement
Rewriting the rules of fashion, one outfit at a time is a generation that experiments on a playground of unorthodox silhouettes, and makeshift ideas and packs a punch with their vivid and vibrant fashion statements. Yet in a country like India — one that is bold enough to create its own set of rules when it comes to redefining cultural fashion with a modern bent of mind, one may think and wonder about a rising movement that allows for a more inclusive world view.
We speak to four up-and-coming homegrown designers who are increasingly winning the hearts of domestic as well as global consumers in recent years, whilst dialing up the style quotient. Edited excerpts follow…
Ethics or Aesthetics?
According to fashion designer Kshitij Jalori, “Aesthetics isn’t a matter of choice, rather it is one of the prerequisites of being in the industry. If we can’t create a product that is aesthetically appealing then irrespective of the ethical viability, the commercial viability will never be there. So while it is very important to be ethical in one’s practices; aesthetics isn’t a matter of choice, but rather a prerequisite to sustaining and growing yourself in the world of fashion.”
With a desire to bridge the parallel universe of homegrown western wear and the needs of modern Indian women, Pooja Baheti — founder of Poppi believes that “Ethics are the most important foundation a brand needs to build on. In the long term, a brand’s vision and success, dependent upon its ethics need to be defined and well in place. That’s what will be remembered by consumers. This creates brand loyalty, recall and ergo sales.”
Sustainable Consumerism - Yay or Nay?
Born in the beautiful valleys of Kashmir, a professional doctor turned designer Nighat Ahmad, Founder of House of THL explains how, “With the rise of conscious consumers, sustainable fashion is becoming a trending facet of modern consumerism. Economic, environmental, and cultural sustainability aspects are also finding their way into the world of mainstream fashion. With ethical fashion influencers calling their way out online and garnering engagement — sustainable fashion labels are successfully able to decipher the right voice for their target market.”
On the other hand, “Though many brands are claiming to be sustainable, and maybe the final steps of their processes are in fact ‘sustainable’, a lot of the time they are not aware of the behind-the-scenes processes. I’d say there’s still a long way to go and a lot to learn before sustainable fashion can be a part of mainstream culture,” shares Pooja.
The Power Of Representation: Artists & Artisans
As a passionate designer who focuses on working with Indian textiles while giving them a contemporary perspective, Kshitij says, “Today, younger designers are looking more and more towards the prevailing craft techniques and traditions, whilst finding ways to make them relevant to the current times. My eponymous brand itself has focused heavily on making our traditional textiles more modern and best-suited to the present-day taste and aesthetic thereby giving our nation’s craft longevity and viability. Simultaneously, we draw a lot of inspiration from artists from across eras which we talk about in our collection notes and they become the directional base for us to develop the collection further.”
Capturing a reflection of conscious and slow fashion, fashion designer Shivani Bhargava’s eponymous brand focuses on empowering artisans and nurturing India's essence through its craftsmanship and handlooms. Shivani shares, “Indian homegrown brands can be found in various countries all across the world. Our brand has been focusing on sustainable forms since the beginning. Use of handwoven fabrics as our core strength and our way to support and as well as highlight our Indian textiles around the world. With a firm belief that fabric development can empower livelihood, I collaborate with handloom clusters and weavers from the remotest parts of India to create endless opportunities for craftsmen.”
Pinning India On The Global Map
Cultivating a brand focussed on lending an international and more contemporary voice to age-old textile traditions and making designs more relevant for the new age discerning consumer — Kshitij thinks that, “The Indian homegrown fashion movement is now heading onto a global stage where we will soon have some internationally recognisable fashion powerhouses, a concept which is yet unheard of for Indian labels.”
Whereas, focussing on the astounding set of the ethos of sustainability, size-inclusivity, and a celebration of slow fashion as per Pooja, “Poppi is on a mission to put India alongside the fashion capitals of the world and create a niche in the high street fashion universe.”
