A Stitch in Time
On a splendid evening in the vibrant heart of New Delhi, as the golden hues of dusk danced across the sky, we found ourselves enchanted by the majestic gates of The Claridges Hotel. In an exclusive interview, Designer Nitya Bajaj shares her captivating journey and the inspiration behind her eagerly anticipated Ajrakh menswear launch. With every word, she drew us deeper into her world, where tradition meets modernity, and creativity knows no bounds.
Edited excerpts follow…
The Making of a Designer
“As a NIFT graduate, I launched my label, Nitya Bajaj, in 2012, debuting at Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai. Since then, I've had the privilege of dressing numerous celebrities like Janhvi Kapoor and Alia Bhatt. I started with occasion wear—gowns and dresses—before expanding into luxury dressmaking for weddings and bespoke pieces. In 2022, I began collaborating with Ajrak artisans from Kutch, and in 2023, I showcased their craft in my first couture show in New Delhi with Tara Sutaria and Pia Sutaria. Today, my brand is celebrated for luxury womenswear, kidswear, and emerging menswear, all emphasizing high-quality fabrics, intricate hand embroidery, and exceptional craftsmanship," says Nitya.
From Roots to Runway
Nitya’s brand proudly represents the craft of Ajrakh, working closely with artisan clusters to develop new prints, colors, and blocks each season. For her latest collection, she reimagined traditional wooden blocks into geometric designs, replacing florals with lines and shapes like paisleys and stars. Creating masculine Ajrakh patterns in jewel tones was a challenge, but she relished the process. She aims to blend this traditional craft with contemporary silhouettes, introducing Ajrakh in modern pantsuits, corsets, resort sets, and more. Recently, she designed Ajrakh for Janhvi Kapoor's film "Devara," ensuring that while the silhouettes are modern, the essence of Ajrakh remains intact.
Eco-Elegance
“Ajrakh is a fully sustainable process. I work with natural fibers like cotton and silk, using wooden blocks with natural dyes. The fabric undergoes eco-friendly treatments, such as dipping in castor oil and soda ash. Ajrakh's legacy is about passing down this craft through generations, and I’m proud to support it. I create versatile outfits designed for longevity and reuse. Additionally, my brand promotes non-plastic, recycled paper packaging for our products,” shares Nitya.
Tradition in Transition
Nitya’s Ajrakh menswear features unique prints paired with sequin hand embroidery. The designs focus on simplicity to highlight the intricate craft of Ajrakh. Patterns have been reimagined into geometric shapes, replacing florals with lines, circles, and paisleys.
Although Nitya had no personal connection to Ajrakh initially, a visit to Gujarat changed that. An artisan shared, "It’s not just fabric; it’s the story of our clan." This inspired her to honour their craft through her designs, giving recognition and love to the artisans, who have become part of the label.
